Sunday: From Checkpoint to Church

01-09-2011

Esther and I set our alarm for 3 a.m. to be at the Taybe Checkpoint by 4 a.m.  Everything is dark at that time of day and we quietly left the flat so our two teammates could continue sleeping.  We woke up our taxi driver in the office about a block from our flat.  He was awake in a flash and we journeyed towards the checkpoint.  Sunday is the start of the work week so it usually many people pass through this checkpoint on their way to work in Israel.  In spite of the early hour we heard many “sabab ilkher” which means “good morning” in Arabic.  The women were gathered in a separate area as it is culturally inappropriate for them to share the same space as men.  One lady handed us each an orange.  It was a very generous gift  and her way of saying “thank you for being here.” 

We are expected to count the people going through the checkpoint.  It’s a near impossible task but we use a clicker and do the best we can.  The numbers we submit are sent to various places….one of them being the UN.

Upon returning to our flat we crawled back and bed for a snooze before getting up to go to church.  The EA’s in this area attend St. Phillips Anglican Church in Nablus.  Wanting to catch the 9 a.m. bus we walked over to the bus depot but the driver waited about a half an hour until the bus was nearly full before leaving the station.  It took an hour for us to get to Nablus and we arrived at the beginning of the service.  I heard the familiar melody from “The Church is One Foundation” and sang the words I remembered even though the entire service was in Arabic. 

We were given a bulletin written in English which helped in determining the scripture passages for the Epistle and Gospel.  (Romans 12:5 and Luke 2: 41-52)  The Christmas tree and nativity were still in place.  After communion the final hymn was Beethoven’s tune:  “Joyful, Joyful We Adore Thee.”

 The congregation graciously serves Turkish coffee after church.  We met several members of the church and the pastor also came over to chat with us.  Father Ibrahim Nainouz has served this parish for a number of years.  He asked me where I was from and I said “the U.S.” and then added “South Dakota.”

He perked up and said:  “I’ve been to S.D. before myself.”  As the conversation evolved, he told us that when he was 16 he had attended  a Lutheran youth gathering in Denver, CO.  He remembered the name of Pastor Marc Brown who arranged his trip.  He said:  “after the gathering we drove north for 3 days on a sight seeing trip and then I stayed with a family in Watertown, SD for a couple of weeks.”  He has not corresponded with the family since his trip but would like to reconnect with them.  I told him I would do what I could to find information helpful to his search.

When our team goes to another location we also connect with organizations in that area.  Today we visited Project Hope and the Civil Organization in Nablus.  

Both of these organizations work with children to provide positive experiences for them as they live in an area that is unpredictable and sometimes dangerous.  Project Hope sponsors summer and winter camps and other supportive services.   

As you can see by the picture, Nablus is a city which is mostly built on a hill.  More later.  It's been a long day.  Thanks again for your prayers.  Oh, one more thing.  I mentioned yesterday about the level of tension.  Obed alerted me to the awful news from Tucson and went to the web to read about it. 

Here is another article for you to read.  It is from the Sojourners magazine.  It gives you another perspective of how constant the violence has become here.....so different from what we experience back at home.

http://blog.sojo.net/2011/01/04/palestinians-protest-death-of-bilin-activist/

Thanks again for your prayers.  I can feel them.

Susanne

Stopped at a Checkpoint

On the way home to Tulkarm, Esther and I were riding in a service vehicle.  This type of van holds 7 passengers and the driver.  There were 5 Palestinian passengers….4 men and 1 woman and the 2 of us on board.  We were a little ways from Ramallah when we were pulled over at the Zaluraard Checkpoint.  Every service vehicle coming along was ordered to pull over and wait in a parking area on the other side of the road.  Each vehicle was thoroughly searched and our identifications examined.  Other traffic—cars and trucks—were allowed through without a check, but for some unknown reason all service vans were ordered to stop. 

The Israeli soldiers were fully armed and serious about their assigned duty.  It was scary and unnerving to be approached by a soldier carrying a large weapon.  All the service vehicle drivers got out of their vans.  Some passengers also got out of the vans while some stayed inside and waited. 

After a long wait the soldiers allowed the vehicles to start moving.  By this time our taxi driver was very anxious to get us to Tulkarm as this long wait had certainly cut into his income for the day.  He drove very fast and took risks on the road to make up time. 

But in an occupied territory there are any number of ways the strong power can intimidate the weak.  I don’t know how the Palestinian people manage all of their feelings concerning this.  Waiting and patience are everyday activities for Palestinians.  They wait at the checkpoints, wait at the agriculture gates, wait for a loved one to be released from prison, wait to get a permit to visit a relative or friend on the other side of the separation barrier.  The list goes on and on with the grand finale being waiting, waiting, waiting for the occupation to end.  I only know how it made me feel……frustrated, scared and powerless.

We are aware that the tension has been on the rise since the Israelis have ended the moratorium on building settlements.  One of the other EA’s from the United States, Pastor Wayne Smith from Tacoma, recently sent me information on what is happening in Jerusalem since the moratorium was lifted.  You can read about it on his blog:  http://www.prayforthepeaceofjerusalem.wordpress.com.

In the past week there have been two young Palestinians shot to death at checkpoints near us, the closest at Nablus (Jan 2^nd)  where we go to worship most Sundays.  The irony is that these checkpoints are set up to screen travel on Palestinian roads  from one Palestinian town to another Palestinian town.  The reason given for these checkpoints is that they will increase safety and security.   It seems to me that the opposite is true.

Please continue to pray for the Palestinian people to remain patient in face of this constant intimidation and fear. 

Susanne

Trip to Jerusalem

Last Thursday Esther and I took a couple of days off and traveled to Jerusalem for two days off, something that all EA’s are encouraged to do from time to time.  We are also encouraged to take public transportation whenever possible so we can meet other people and have conversations with them.  We left our flat in Tulkarm and walked to the bus depot.  We were lucky to find a bus waiting for passengers so the trip to Ramallah cost us 13 NIS (shekels) which is about $4. 

View From "Stars & Bucks" Coffeehouse in Ramallah

That trip took us 1 ½ hours and we got off in downtown Ramallah.  We next went to Stars & Bucks coffeehouse located on the third floor of a building which has many coffee, dessert and ice cream selections.  We chose cheesecake and ice cream along with a cup of coffee and enjoyed the sunny view of the busy streets of Ramallah. 

The St. Thomas Guest House in Jerusalem felt like home to us now and we knew right where to go when they handed us our keys.  We were delighted to have private rooms—our first since arriving on December 6^th.  After a rest we started our trek to the Old City of Jerusalem.  We also explored some neighborhoods outside the Old City. 

Since it was Thursday, many people were preparing for the week-end which is basically Friday and Saturday and then back to work on Sunday.  We walked around until we were tired and hungry.  It’s pretty easy to find any kind of food you are craving and we settled on the Holy Bagel for a snack and Thai food for dinner.

We had arranged a day trip to the Dead Sea but it was cancelled when there weren’t enough participants to make the journey.  I hope we’ll be able to go there another time.

There was plenty to do in Jerusalem the next morning and we decided to visit a holy site nearby called the Garden Tomb. 

It is believed to be the garden of Joseph of Arimathea where Jesus was buried after his crucifixion.  We joined a Nigerian tour group whose guide gave the narration in English.  He quoted scripture and outlined the historical significance of the place.  It was an incredible walk through the beautiful garden and we were privileged to hear hymns sung by the group as they walked through. 

After that we walked to the Old City of Jerusalem.  Since January 7^th is the day the Eastern Orthodox celebrate Christmas we wanted to visit an Orthodox church and see if any services were being held.  As it turned out many people of Orthodox faith had journeyed to Bethlehem to celebrate there.

Women in Black Vigil

Since we were in Jerusalem on a Friday we attended the weekly Women in Black demonstration.  It has been held weekly at the same time (1 to 2 p.m.) and in the same location since 1988 which was one month after the first Palestinian Intifada.  (I will write at a later time about Intifada....) 

It is an International Movement of Women for Peace.  Their beginnings involved a small group of Israeli women carrying out a simple form of protest.  Once a week they would wear black clothing and raise a black sign in the shape of a hand with white lettering reading in either Hebrew or English:  “Stop the Occupation.”  Within months vigils were held throughout Israel. 

Several months after the first Women in Black vigil in Israel began, “solidarity vigils” began in other countries.  It has become a movement of women of conscience of all denominations and nationalities who hold vigils to protest violence in their part of the world.  It was a privilege to stand in solidarity with others, particularly Israelis, who desire an end to the Occupation.

Susanne

Akkaba and Abeer

This morning Esther and I got up early to go to the Akkaba Agriculture gate.  This area is quite a ways north of Tulkarm.  It was raining very hard when we left and the rain continued to fall quite heavily as we rode north in the taxi.  There were many areas with water on the road and some roads were closed due to the heavy rainfall. 

Looking West near Akkaba Beyond Barrier

Since this was our first visit to this gate we were not sure where it was.  The taxi driver kept asking other drivers for directions but because of the water on the road we decided not to try to find the gate.  Our driver went down a very steep drive where there was a house at one end.  Since there wasn’t room to turn around, he tried to back up several times.  Finally with very skillful driving he backed up the hill to where he was able to turn around.  But then in starting back to Tulkarm he had a flat tire. 

This required the taxi driver to change the tire in the rain.  He wasn’t really prepared for the cold weather and he only had sandals on without socks.  We made it back to Tulkarm without any further problems.  Actually, the rain was very welcome here as it was getting dry.  This is supposed to be the rainy season and people are happy to see the rain.

Around noon a taxi picked us up and we went over to visit Abeer.  She had arranged the taxi for us and because of her fluent Arabic she was able to have someone come to the EA flat to pick us up in a few minutes.  She lives quite a ways away from us so it’s easier for us to take a taxi.  Abeer lives in a typical Palestinian house that also houses other members of her husband’s family.  The way the houses are built allow for other floors to be built each above the other. 

Abeer and her two boys

She took us upstairs to show us what she hopes will be a finished house for her own family.  The walls and roof are finished.  There are cutouts for the windows in each room, outlets for electricity and the floor is ready for flooring to be laid.  They are currently living in a unit which is owned by her husband’s brother.  She said he is living somewhere else but he is very disabled due to paralyses.  This portion of the house has been ready for continued building for 6 years but during that time Abeer’s spouse was imprisoned and their two children were born.  Her husband is out of prison but also out of work.  Abeer has a degree in social work but there are no jobs available in her field.  With neither one of them finding any kind of steady work they cannot afford to complete their own section of the family home.  She agreed to give some of our team Arabic language lessons and we will pay her for services.  She is very expressive and when she pronounces words she also shows us how she forms the words to get the appropriate sounds.  Abeer is also very proud of her children who are age 1 and 2.  It is evident when we are around them how quickly they are learning because of her willingness to spend lots of time teaching and nurturing them.

Tomorrow Esther and I will go to Jerusalem for a two day break.  We will be staying at the St. George Guesthouse--attached to St. George's Anglican Church.  We hope to take a tour to visit the Dead Sea. 

Stay warm.  I understand from the web that there is lots of snow around your areas.

Susanne

Reflections on Farmer's Lifestyles

This was a different agriculture gate for us today.  Not knowing how long it would take to get to Qaffin, Esther and I started out an hour earlier than the gate was scheduled to be opened.  When we arrived it was already daylight so it was easy to see who was waiting to be allowed on the road to access their farmland.

Waiting For a Day in the Fields

Esther talks with coffee vender

 The farmers were in a good mood as they waited patiently at the gate.  Most of them know each other because they are from the same area and they may have adjoining land on the other side of the gate.  Even on this very pleasant morning looking at the beautiful landscape with the natural rocks and olive trees it is disrupted by the Israeli military presence which seems to be out of place.  I kept thinking to myself….why does there need to be three fully armed soldiers in a huge heavy duty military vehicle there to let farmers and donkeys access their own land? 

Qaffin Gate From Distance Showing Army Vehicle

It doesn’t make sense but many things don’t make sense in a land when military occupation has gone on far longer than necessary.  And while the farmers accept the tight restrictive system we heard plenty of farmers wanting more say in when they go to their own fields and when they return to their home.  For instance, the Qaffin the gate is only opened 3 days a week--Monday, Wednesday and Friday.  Whose convenience is that?  When Friday is the official religious day of the week for the Muslim population, why would anyone want to work on their Sabbath? 

As we stood on our duty we also noticed that the farmers themselves collected all the permits and took them to the receiving officer so he could check them all out on the computer.  When the soldiers decided to start letting the farmers come through it was the farmers themselves who called out each name on the permits as each farmer heard their name and came through.  All the soldiers did was stand there with their huge rifles while the rest of the organizational effort was accomplished by the farmers. 

 I just imagined how much better it would be if the farmers just got up the in morning, ate breakfast with their families, decided by themselves when would be a good time to get out to the field and returned when their goal for that particular day was realized.  I’ve known many farmers in my life and I have always admired the way they know exactly when to do certain things to keep their land and their crops in the best possible condition. 

I'm looking at stone fence in Nazlat Isa

 After our morning duties we toured some of the surrounding land.  As you can see the soil is quite rocky.  But olive trees thrive in this kind of terrain.  We were told that it takes 20 years for olive trees to begin producing.  So you can understand how painful it is for these farmers to see their precious olive trees destroyed to make room for illegal settlers or to make room for barriers and roads that are imposed upon them.

Farmers here face the same uncertainties of weather as do farmers in South Dakota.  But when you add the restrictive system of access imposed by the Israeli Defense Forces, it adds a tremendous burden to the already difficult life of farming.  I have a great deal of admiration for these men.  Their long-suffering and patience is almost beyond my imagination.

I thank all of you for your prayers on my behalf.  Please add to your prayers these Palestinian people who daily face such humiliation and control.

Susanne

The Market

January 3

Realizing we were a bit low on ingredients to fix for dinner, we decided yesterday to go shopping at the market.  As we walked to the area where all kinds of fruits and vegetables are for sale, it reminded me of the Farmer’s markets back home.  The difference here is that all of the stands are open 6 days a week all year long. 

Since the climate is suitable for growing crops year around, there are always fresh fruits and vegetables available.  A vegetable farmer told me that he raises two crops a year. 

Delivery Vehicle

Fresh Avacado For You?

The first planting is sometime in November and the second one in March.  Many hot weather plants like tomatoes are grown in huge greenhouses during the cooler months of Dec., January and Feb. and we see the greenhouses in many places throughout this agricultural area.  The plastic is removed from the greenhouses during the warm months the rest of the year.  Everything seems to grow well in this climate including many varieties of fruit trees and any kind of vegetable imaginable.

Lots of Fresh Spices

We decided on rosemary potatoes and a vegetable stir fry for dinner.  It was a joy to cut up the vegetables and add the fresh rosemary to the cut up potatoes.  We also have made our own hummus from boiled chick peas, tahini, garlic, olive oil and lemon juice. That goes well with the bread we pick up daily from the bakery just down the street.  

Homemade lemon or orange juice is also a favorite for us.  Oftentimes for dessert we will eat some fruit and tonight we had fresh strawberries and pomegranate.  It’s amazing how good food tastes whenever we sit down to eat. 

It seemed like a good idea to fix lentil soup for dinner tonight.  We had all the ingredients but one very important one was missing……onions.  Then I remembered that right across the street from where we live was a new vegetable stand.  Surely they’d have onions.  As I walked across the street, the vendor was just unloading his supplies for the day.  He was happy to sell me a kilo of onions for 3 sheckles.  So now the soup is simmering on the stove and we’ll share it with the EA from Hebron, a young attorney Max from Sweden, who is visiting us on a placement visit for a couple of days.  We are encouraged to visit other placements twice during our 3 month stay in Palestine.

Bon Appetit

Susanne

My Christmas Experience in Bethlehem

It was indeed an awesome experience to worship with fellow Christians on Christmas Eve in Bethlehem.  I could hardly believe that I was actually in the very place I had heard about all my life.  But the words from the hymn that I have sung since a child, “Oh little town of Bethlehem, how still we see thee lie” is certainly not true today.  

Outside of the sanctuary of Christmas Lutheran Church, as we walked around the town, I can only describe it as a noisy, crowded, run-down city of nearly 27,000 people. Most of their lives have been radically altered by the rapid construction of the “Separation Barrier” in 2004.  A woman told us that almost overnight she was cut off from family on the other side of the “fence”, a concrete wall of nearly 30 feet. 

A View From My Room in the Bethlehem Inn

 This concrete barrier surrounds the town on three sides. 

The Israeli government controls access into and out of Bethlehem.  And what was once a thriving Christian and Muslim community is rapidly becoming a ghetto.  I met a Christian man in Tulkarm who said he would love to visit Bethlehem, but he has only been there once—years ago.  As a Palestinian Christian he no longer has access to one of his faith’s holiest places. 

Bethlehem is especially busy at Christmas, of course.  My husband, Obed , recently shared with me  about an  Associated Press article in the Sioux Falls Argus Leader  that indicated that the increased tourism had made for a very merry Christmas in Bethlehem.  But please click on the following article to get a different perspective of Christmas 2010 in Bethlehem.  

 http://wallwritings.wordpress.com/2010/12/28/behind-a-30-foot-prison-wall-merry-christmas-becomes-a-media-lie/

Since the construction of the barrier, businesses have been forced to close because of the decrease in tourist traffic.  Oh there are plenty of tourists.  Busload after busload of tourists come to Bethlehem, but they are shuttled in and out of the Church of the Nativity or Rachel’s Well and get on their buses to spend most of their  money in Israel.  People who live in Bethlehem have lost jobs and had their access to education curtailed. 

The number of Palestinian Christians has decreased since 1948 and migration to other areas has rapidly increased since the barrier has been constructed.   Christians find themselves in the middle of the conflict between the fundamentalist factions on both sides of the present conflict.   If you would like to read a more comprehensive article on the reasons behind the decline in the number of Palestinian Christians living here, you might consider reading this article:

http://www.antiwar.com/cook/?articleid=10297

I am going to show you a number of pictures that I have taken in my brief sojourn here which show you how Palestinians feel about the “Separation Barrier.” 

Note the Christmas Tree

Note the Olive Trees Cut Down

Art on Barrier North of Tulkarm

I hope that you have a very nice celebration of New Years Day.  I went to bed early last evening and although New Years is not a holiday here, we did hear indications of some celebrating going on at midnight.  I must get to bed early tonight because we have early morning watch.  Ann, an EA from the village of Yanoun who is from Coventry, England, is with us for a break and will accompany Esther and me for our early morning trek.

Best Wishes From Tulkarm,

Susanne